Sunday, December 2, 2012

Florida:2010-Part Three

Friday: We went to Tony's for a late lunch that first day. As promised, Tony's had the best clam chowder I've ever tasted. We walked down Dock Street and explored the town a little bit. There is a nice fishing pier built to withstand any future hurricanes, and there were children playing in the park by our condo. We stayed in that evening and cooked chicken thighs and brocolli while watching O Brother, Where Art Thou?

Saturday: Lovely sunrise when it appeared between two sets of clouds. A golden path ran between the sun and us. It seemed to cross the water from Crystal River to arrive at our balcony. The tide was out so the mud flats looked lovely.

I've never been able to get a mental handle on tides. I know about tide tables but there seem to be so many variables. The tides ebb and flow, the birds that eat according to water levels, and the winding channels through the waterways for boats were all fascinating and easily observable from our lodging.

 Started the day with breakfast at the Rusty Rim. Nice view and we were inside and warm. An older man set out in a kayak from the land near the restaurant. He seemed to be trying to get to the large key opposite the town, but the wind was driving him away from it. I don't know if he didn't know how to compensate, or if he just wasn't strong enough but he kept trying.

We walked for hours, finding the cemetery and a boardwalk next to it that led to another side of the key that holds a lot of the town. The bitter cold wind didn't start until around noon.

The Old Curmudgeon Bookstore had a good selection of books and computers you could rent by the half hour. The owner was indeed a curmudgeon and, since I'd already looked at his website, I knew not to talk politics with him. Tony's was just across the street so we had clam chowder and key lime pie for lunch. This small town had a lot of good food in it.

Cedar Key is a leader in shellfish aquaculture, meaning clam farms. After federal regulations  destroyed the traditional fishing industry with a fishing ban, they turned to raising clams. They grow over 175 million freshwater clams a year.

I saw kayakers and wind surfers out in the wind-whipped waters. I wanted to kayak but knew I didn't have the strength or the warm clothing to go out on the water. I kept hoping the weather would calm down. Surely it wouldn't be bad for the entire ten days.

After doing laundry and taking a nap, we went to Robinson's, a restaurant out on Highway 24. Very good place. We had mullet for the first time. Not an easy fish to eat with millions of tiny bones, but very tasty. It turns out that the silver fish we frequently see leaping out of the water, are mullets. And, we were informed by our waitress, nobody knows why they jump.


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